Bridge/Cards: I must be getting old... I've started playing bridge.
Bridge is a fabulous trick-taking card game with a steep learning curve. I especially love the bidding portion of the game where you're describing your hand to your partner using cues (e.g. opening 2 Clubs means "I have a stellar hand, partner; please don't pass!"). I'm a regular at the Madison Bridge Meetup; join us... we teach! I've also started playing online.
The book The Card Turner by Louis Sacher is a sweet novel and you can learn how to play bridge while reading it!
I like other card games, too, and some board games.
I read The Complete Idiot's Guide to Bridge (Madison library) and am starting to read the newer Learn to Play Bridge Like a Boss (Madison library), both by by H. Anthony Medley. The first was an excellent book and I follow it closely. These conventions follow modern Standard American bidding, plus most elements from Standard American Yellow Card (SAYC).
Bridge Bidding Conventions
If you don't know how to evaluate your hand for High Card Points (HCP, e.g., 4 points for Ace, 3 for King, 2 for Queen, 1 for Jack) and other points (especially shortness in suits, e.g. 3 for void, 2 for singleton), read this article first (it gives 5 points for void).
Here are my bidding conventions (with links to more info), but first, the key. Numbers 6 and 7 don't come up very often.
C, D, H, S, NT = Clubs, Diamonds, Hearts, Spades, No Trump
RHO = Right Hand Opponent
X = Double
Five card majors, convenient minors. With at least 12 points (preferably 13+)...
If I have five cards in a major suit (H, S), I will bid it. If you have at least six points and three cards in my major suit, please support my bid right away. (If you can support my major suit and also have a long minor suit, don't tell me about your minor suit; it will only give opps extra info.) Support it at the next level, or if you have a great hand, support it at a higher level. Go to game (25 points needed between us) if it makes sense!
If I don't have five cards in a major suit, I will bid my best minor suit (C, D). If you have at least six points...
If you have four cards in a major suit, please bid it. If I also have four cards in that suit, I will support your bid. If you bid H, but I don't have four H, I will bid S if I have four of those (still at the one level). If you also have four S, please support my bid.
If you have fewer than four cards in a major suit, respond 1NT (or higher with good high card points). If my hand is strong, I'll take us to game (3NT) if it makes sense; if my hand is not strong, I'll pass.
Keep bidding until we agree on a suit (or NT). Also, if one of us has been passing but the other bids a new suit, put them back in their first suit if it's a better fit (unless you have only one more card and it'll take them to the next level), even if you have no points.
Take-out double (X). If my RHO bids and I am short (or sometimes long) in the suit they bid, I will X. Please do not pass if your RHO passes, no matter how bad your hand is. However, if your RHO bids and you bid, I will assume you have a good hand!
Weak 2's. Weak 2's is a preemptive bid; I will bid at the 2 level (but not 2C... see #5 below) if I am long in a suit, but weak in points. I'm hoping my partner has points, so please pass unless you have a great hand, then keep bidding until we agree on a suit.
1NT with 15-17 HCP (occasionally more points), balanced hand with no voids or singletons, and no more than more than two doubletons. However, if I have a five card major I will open in the major suit.
Stayman. If I bid 1NT, respond 2C (or pass with less than 8 HCP) to ask me to bid a four card major suit (assuming you have a four card major suit; otherwise, just bid 2NT or 3NT). My responses:
2D denies having a four card major
2H promises a four card heart suit, may also have a four card spade suit
2S promises a four card spade suit, denies having a four card heart suit
Transfers. If I bid 1NT and you have a weak hand -- but length in a suit -- bid below the desired suit, as follows:
2D if you have at least 5H, and I will bid 2H
2H if you have at least 5S, and I will bid 2S
2S if you have at least 6C, and I will bid 3C
2NT is not a valid bid
It's up to you to take it from there, either passing with a weak hand or going onto 3 or game with a stronger hand.
2 Clubs strong and artificial means I have 22+ points. Please do not pass (bid 2D if you have dreck). Otherwise, bid a four card major suit (even though the books say you need five) or NT if you have a balanced hand.
When I'm thinking about slam, Blackwood (4NT) when in a trump suit or Gerber (4C) when in NT. These bids are asking how many Aces you have. If you have 0 (or all 4), respond one above my bid: 4C for Blackwood, 4D for Gerber. If you have 1, 2, or 3, respond 4 D/H, H/S, S/NT (Blackwood/Gerber). If I then bid 5NT/5C (Blackwood/Gerber), I'm asking how many Kings you have. Respond in a similar way as for Aces. Then I'll place the final bid and we'll hopefully be in (a small?) slam to win extra points. Though I have to say, these methods don't always work and I'm considering options. To advanced players: what works for you?
If you open and I have opening points, I'll jump to the next level to let you know that. Keep bidding until we agree on a suit or NT.
I play for score. That means sometimes I'll overbid to try to prevent the opps from winning the bid.
If I open and you can make 3NT (25 points needed between us), please bid it (not just 2NT). This goes for other ways of making game, too (26 points needed for major suit, 28 points needed for minor suit).
When bidding, I add extra shortage points I have in opps' suit; this is a neat trick that usually works well.
If you bid differently, please let me know... I'm somewhat flexible. I'm open to suggestions and constructive criticism.